Restaurant Review: Isabel's Restaurant

This evening I dined in France, at least it felt that way, for Isabel’s Restaurant in Ashley Cross is a local gem that oozes continental charm from across the channel.

This Michelin recommended brasserie may be hundreds of miles away from its native home, but with 40 years under its belt, Isabel’s has become a favourite haunt for Dorset residents. And what a treat it is. Located in a classic converted 19th century pharmacy it serves fine French, British and Mediterranean cuisine in an intimate, candlelit setting.

For more than 40 years Isabel's restaurant has been a key feature of the Ashley Cross dining scene with Maggie and Luciano Trisconi at the helm. Now they have handed over to their chef patron Justin Castle and his family.

Dorset-born Justin joined Isabel’s more than 20 years ago after training at Juan les Pins in south eastern France.

Justin has worked his way up from a young commis chef to chef patron.

He said: “I’m passionate about the food I produce. I'm excited about keeping everything that customers already love whilst having the opportunity to put my own slant on things. Regular, loyal customers need have no fear though - my values will never move far from those Luciano has instilled in me.”

Isabel’s Restaurant frequently holds a spot in the top ten on Trip Advisor, locally, and Justin has clearly worked tirelessly hard to create a reputation built upon quality fare and customer service. Justin is joined by a dedicated team, some of whom have been working here for 18 years, thus boasting a wealth of experience.

Sous chef, Adam Corbin, works alongside Justin in the kitchen, and restaurant manager David Taylor leads the front of house staff. David brings a wealth of of experience from having been at the Mandarin in Bournemouth for 32 years.

Now under new ownership, for the first time ever Isabel's opens its doors for lunch on Thursdays to Sundays - including a traditional Sunday roast. The restaurant is also open mid-week for evening meals.

With summer approaching now is the perfect time to sample their brand new lunch menu (serving up an eclectic mix of Mediterranean style dishes) seated in the new Bar De Jardin – a quaint outside space located at the rear offering a secluded hideaway in Poole.

Outside dining is also available in their Arbor for lunch and evening meals – a covered retreat in the garden where guests can enjoy cocktails, fine wines, prosecco, champagne, canapes, aperitifs and coffee. The artisan style cocktail bar and Arbor leading to the garden can also be hired for private functions and corporate lunches. The garden and bar area are open Thursdays to Sundays. The Green Dining Room and lounge bar downstairs are also available for private dining.

You can even become a ‘member’ and enjoy a host of benefits including special wine evenings, chef demos, celebrity chef events and special promotions.

We dined on a Thursday evening and for a weekday is was busy with a calm flurry of staff attending to the tables.

Isabel’s Restaurant is a French bistro set up with intimate booths providing the perfect setting for a romantic evening (there have in fact been a few marriage proposals) with other tables set out closely together encouraging a rather social affair. 

The décor is characteristically charming; with French drapes, candles, music, cushions, lace, dark hues and bottles stacked up along the back wall.

The menu offers a traditional indulgent menu including; fresh fish, quality meat, French specialities, vegetarian, gluten and diary free dishes.

We were greeted with a tasty selection of canapes to enjoy whilst pursuing the a la carte menu, washed down with a stunning white Burgundy, Macon Chardonnay, £27 a bottle. A bistro menu is also available which offers a smaller selection of weekly dishes.

To start we enjoyed the French onion soup - soupe A L'oignon, £5.90, served with a crouton topped with melted cheese – a classic rich soup that was perfect.

My husband opted for the ham hock - Jarret de Porc (GF), £7.90, and was not disappointed. The slow cooked tender ham hock came with a delicious tangy homemade piccalilli and pea purée; a blend of beautiful colours on the plate.

For main we devoured the duck - Caneton Aux Peches (DF), £19.40. The duck was beautifully tender, cooked medium/rare, as it should be, and complemented with a sweet plum and peppercorn sauce.

We also plumped for classic steak - Entrecote Aux Cepes, £19.60. This cut of prime succulent sirloin steak was cooked perfectly - nicely seared on top to seal in the flavour, balanced with wild mushrooms in a cream sauce.

We shared a selection of seasonal vegetables; creamy parsnip mash, curly kale, cheesy dauphinoise potatoes, pommes frites, peas, carrots, cauliflower, £2.40, per head.

To complete this magnificent meal, for dessert we enjoyed Trio of Desserts, £7.60, consisting of chocolate mousse, steamed ginger and chilli sponge, a toffee and whisky sauce, and strawberry Pavlova. We also sampled their fruit sorbets, £6.60 for three; mango, lemon and raspberry. Both scrumptious!

Other tempting options included the Baileys crème brulee and cheese board, alongside a quailty selection of ports and dessert wines. But we finished with a Cafetiere, £2.80, and a calypso coffee with Tia Maria, £6.40.

Isabel’s is an intriguing venue; step through the chateau chic curtains and you’ll see it’s well worth a visit.